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Here's one of the CS4-4 rivets with the mandrel removed so I can check the countersink
depth. Note that I'm going to use solid rivets on the inside of both forward and aft
curved sections, so the outside will get pop rivets on both forward and aft sections.
My brother, Chris, made me up a bucking bar to allow bucking the rivets on the inside
of the canopy frame. Thanks, Chris!
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Here are all four canopy frame channels with the outer holes countersunk with a 120 degree
countersink. I had intended to countersink these by hand, but the bit chattered terribly, so
I had to use the countersink cage. It wasn't too bad actually. Here's what I did:
- Adjust the countersink cage on a piece of scrap to the nominal depth.
- Back off the countersink depth by 0.010 inch. This ensures that the holes along the
curve don't get countersunk too much.
- Countersink all the holes.
- Check the depth of all the holes using the test rivet shown above. If the countersink
depth is correct, put a checkmark next to that hole.
- Increase the depth of the countersink by 0.002 inch and re-countersink all the holes that
don't already have a checkmark.
- Go to step #4
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After switching to a 100 degree countersink, I did all the holes along the inside of the curve.
The process was the same as for the outside, except I started with the nominal depth and increased
it by 0.002 inch after each cycle.
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Next, I got looking at the attachment of the F-632A center channel. I was surprised to find that
the part didn't look quite like the drawing. Here's what the preview plans show for the attachment
of the channel to the F-706 bulkhead.
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...and here's the exploded view from the preview plans.
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However, when I looked at the full sized plans, the design has changed. This drawing
matches the parts supplied. Unfortunately I hadn't noticed this previously or I would
have used AN426AD4 rivets where the forward turtledeck skin attaches to the F-706 bulkhead
as shown here. Instead I used AN426AD3 rivets. I'm thinking of just leaving the 3/32 rivets
or possibly using oops rivets. Maybe I'll call Van's to discuss.
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Here's the exploded view from the full sized plans.
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When test fitting the F-732A channel, I noticed it appeared the canopy rear window
would be a tight fit between the channel and the F-774 forward turtle deck skin. In
order to allow a bit more room, I elected to use a slightly thicker spacer (3/16 inch
instead of 1/8 inch) for the F-732F plate. I used the prepunched holes in the channel
to drill the spacer, so I should be able to return this part.
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Here's the spacer with countersunk holes. The #30 holes attach to the channel only whereas
the #40 holes attach to the skin and the channel.
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I also fabricated these angle brackets for attachment of the forward end of the channel
to the canopy frame.
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On the aft sections of the canopy frame, the plans call for AN470AD4 rivets, but I decided
to countersink the bottom two rows of rivets to accept AN426AD4 countersunk rivets. I did
this because I'm going to add a cover plate to close up the channel and possibly mount some
baggage lighting or map lights to the cover. I figured using flush rivets would look better
and allow easier installation / removal of the cover. The top two rows of rivets are not
countersunk and will receive universal head rivets per the plans. Note this picture shows the
canopy frame upside down.
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