I made these little bushings yesterday on my brother, Chris', lathe. They will reduce the stroke of the master cylinders by either 1/8" or 1/4".

With a 1/8" stop tube installed, I scribed new marks for the left pedals.

Same for the right pedals using a 1/4" stop tube.

After marking those, I decided that I would not use a stop tube on the left pedals and would only use a 1/8" stop tube for the right pedals.

I checked the amount of pedal play using Van's hardware setup (two short pivot bolts for the pedal pivot, and using a stack of washers as a spacer for the connection of the master cylinder to to the brake pedal tab). The pedal play was about 1/8" (no photo, sorry). Then I switched over to the configuration shown here (one long bolt for the pedal pivot, and using the custom master cylinder attach bolt). Pedal play was reduced to around 1/32". Nice.

I had left out some rivets on the aft-most bulkhead. I installed them.

Previously, I was going to use 3/32" rivets for the rudder stops. I decided to reverse this decision and go with 1/8" rivets.

I installed two of four 1/8" rivets (the aft two). The edge distance was poor on the bulkhead tabs...particularly on the little tab shown here.

I clecoed on these access hole covers. The plans call for them to be installed with #6 screws. I've generally replaced #6 screws with #8 screws as they are more resistant to stripping out the screw head. However, in this case the holes are fairly close to the edge of the cover.

I decided to make up a part with holes near the edge like the cover plates. I'll dimple this to see if the edge pulls in.

Dimpled with a #8 dimple die. The edge pulled in only the slightest amount. I'm still a bit undecided about whether to change these to #8 screws. The fairings in this same area are spec'ed for #6 screws all around. Should I change them to #8? Have a mix of #6 and #8 in this area? Stick with #6? I'm going to have to think about this a bit.